Point Dume

Review

Intro

Point Dume State Beach in Malibu, CA is a beautiful place with a lot of history and even more recreational opportunities. Recently, it's become a really good Standup Paddle Boarding destination. Those who take out their boards are treated to some breathtaking views of the rocky promontory, cliffs, and coves. They also have the chance to see California gray whales from December to April. Paddling here can be difficult for some if it's a windy day or if the water is choppy, but if you've got the requisite experience, then you'll love what Point Dume has to offer. 

What Makes It Great

And speaking of what Point Dume has to offer, it is also very well known for its climbing routes.  There is a main low angle face here that contains 5-6 routes from 5.9 and under, made up primarily of crimps and sharp edges, which are excellent for learning footwork. The steeper wall that faces the ocean is made up of 5.10 routes that are fairly pumpy and hard for newcomer lead climbers to learn on. Point Dume is an awesome place to spend the day climbing right on the beach, with easy access to the city. During or after climbing, take a dip in the Pacific to rest or cool off on a hot day. Dogs are not allowed on the beach at all, so be sure to leave Snoopy at home. This wall can be very crowded on the weekends, so climb during the week or get here early enough to set top-rope anchors.

Top Ten Routes

1) Easy Boulder V0

2) Arete 5.6 TR

3) Left Flake 5.7 TR

4) Right Center 5.7

5) Center 5.8 TR

6) Left Center 5.8

7) Left Face 5.9

8) South Face Right 5.10a

9) South Face Left 5.10a

10) Oceanside Left 5.10c

Who is Going to Love It

Most of the routes are 5.10 and under, and there are several top rope anchors for beginners and intermediates.

Directions, Parking, & Regulations

Turn on Westward Beach Road from PCH and go east for about 1 mile.